The western uplands of Gunung Batukau are famous for their magnificent landscapes. From Wongaya Gede, take the narrow mountain road leading east to 700-meter-high Jatuluwih (27 km north of Tabanan town) with a peculiar temple embellished with gargoyle-like creatures—mindful of Chinese temples. Fine views from Jatuluwih, Apuan, and Pacung, and the slopes of Gunung Batukau, Bali's second-highest mountain. Pause awhile in the Sari Restaurant at the scenic viewpoint in Jatuluwih. The temples Pura Natar Sari in Apuan and Pura Bukit Kembar in Pacung are known for their barong dances during the temple odalan; check with one of the tourist offices about times.
     From these heights you can take in the whole of southern Bali to the coast, as well as the mountain range extending to the island's heavily forested western tip. Get to Jatuluwih early or you'll be above the clouds; it also tends to rain in the afternoons. If the scenic but rough road through steeply terraced rice fields hasn't been rendered impassable by heavy rains, reach Jatuluwih directly from Pura Luhur.
     The farmers of Jatuluwih cultivate a special variety of rice called padi bali, which grows up to 120 cm in height. The rice is fluffier and more fragrant than the new "miracle rice" varieties more recently introduced. Padi bali can only be harvested twice a year whereas the new types of rice yield three crops a year. No accommodations in Jatuluwih; neither are there sellers.
     On the way south to Tabanan town visit the pura puseh in Penebel. The phallic linga and vaginal yoni in the bale west of the gate to the inner courtyard, represent Shiva and his consort Uma. While in the Penebel area stay in super Taman Sari Bungalow & Coffee House, tel. (0361) 812898, in Dukuh village. Tariff Rp35,000 s or d, including breakfast. Facilities include restaurant, fishing pool, and local and international telephone service. Clean, nice gardens, and right next to a rambutan orchard that slopes down to a river. Ask manager I Made Rumadi about treks and jeep tours around Bali and Lombok.

On the road north from Mengwi to Bedugul take the turnoff west to the village of Perean, about 30 km from Denpasar. Balinese meru are almost always made entirely of wood, but in the compound of the grand old temple here, Pura Yeh Gangga, the body and foundation consist of stone. On three sides of the pura are niches, on the fourth is a mock door with a stone carving in the shape of a lock. Porcelain plates are embedded in the sides of the temple; steps from the meru's east side lead up to a narrow terrace. Pura Yeh Gangga is crowned with a seven-tiered thatch roof.
     Dating from A.D. 1334, and first taken note of by the Dutch Archaeological Service only in 1920, the remains of three other small buildings have also been found. The simple temple compound is surrounded by a wall broken by a candi bentar. Inscribed stones discovered in the vicinity bear the dates A.D. 1339 and 1429. On the opposite side of the river are several hewn-rock caves, and to the east are the hot springs, Yeh Gangga ("Water of the Ganges"), that gave Perean's temple its name.

Difficult to reach and seldom visited, beautiful Bangsing Waterfall lies in Pujungan village near Pupuan. If coming from Denpasar, the way to the falls starts down a small alley in Pujungan. Drive 10 minutes to the teahouse 500 meters before the air terjun, then walk in and swim in the pool beneath the falls, which is quite deep in the middle.
     The coffee-growing region of Pupuan is on the spectacularly panoramic road north from Antosari to Seririt, the island's most westerly north-south road. On the way, stop in at Pura Makori in Blimbing village (32 km from Tabanan and 55 km from Denpasar) which consists of a number of stones hidden in the forest. With clean, fresh air, an ideal site for meditation.
     At Pupuan, the road turns west and follows the mountain ridge, passing through clove, cacao, and coffee plantations. Since there's not a decent restaurant on the whole trip, take along some fruit and drinks for a picnic.


Except for Bali Barat National Park, the pristine rainforest covering 2,275-meter-high Gunung Batukau is the only wilderness region left on this densely populated island. Known locally as Coconut Shell Mountain, this inactive volcano is the most westerly of Bali's three highest summits and completely dominates the regency of Tabanan. On Batukau's slopes is Pura Luhur, one of the island's national sad-kahyangan temples, seldom visited by tourists because of its remote location in the middle of a montane forest.
     To climb Gunung Batukau, hire a guide for Rp50,000 in Wangaya Gede village two km south of Pura Luhur. From the outer courtyard of the temple, walk 200 meters to a small river, then cross the bridge and turn north up the steep trail through a thick, damp, slippery forest to the top. Only birdsong is audible and only the trail visible during the five to six hour climb. Though climbing it in one go is possible, most climbers rent a tent from their guide and spend the night near the top.
     The view from Gunung Batukau's overgrown summit is blocked by trees. A small temple of roofless stone shrines is on the top. Don't attempt this climb in the rainy season, and don't even try to reach Pura Luhur by road if you don't have a sturdy vehicle with a cooling system in good working order. If you're on a motorbike, you're going to get wet.

Pura Luhur Batukau
A unique, sacred mountain sanctuary and royal temple near the peak of Gunung Batukau, 23 km north of Tabanan, built to venerate deities of mountains and lakes. All the regencies of Bali maintain temples at the temple of Besakih except for the Tabanan princes, who have their ancestral temples here. Pura Luhur served as the state temple for all of western Bali when Tabanan was an independent kingdom, and even today every temple in western Bali has a shrine dedicated to it. When the archaeologist Hooykaas visited the site in the 1920s, he discovered a number of large upright linga, so it's presumed this place has served as a sanctuary since prehistoric times. Legend says the temple was founded by the Hindu sage Kuturan who proselytized on Bali in the 11th century. This date was corroborated in 1925 when Goris discovered statues in a nearby bathing place similar to those found at 11th century Goa Gajah. Legend has it that in 1604 the temple was attacked and partially destroyed by the raja of Buleleng, but his troops were beaten back by millions of bees unleashed by the protective spirits of the temple. Pura Luhur was not rebuilt until 1959, even though pilgrims had continued to worship in the rubble.
     The temple lies in a solitary clearing 1,300 meters above sea level, set amidst a garden of flowering frangipani and hibiscus, with a gigantic, uninhabited, humid tropical forest all around it. The site is often cool and has the highest rainfall on Bali. Not a very large complex, it consists of a main enclosure to the north, plus two smaller temple complexes tucked away in the forest.
     Within the complex are a number of symbolically distinct shrines, each representing a different Tabanan dynasty. Many of the shrines have been newly renovated, so the place has lost a bit of its charm. One of the few temples of its type on Bali, Pura Luhur is known as a pura taman, which means it has a bathing place and is maintained by a king. Note Pura Luhur's seven-tiered meru, similar in shape to a Thai stupa, dedicated to the god Mahadewa who presides over Gunung Batukau. The shrine also exalts Di Made, a ruler of Gelgel A.D. 1164-1686.
     A few meters east of the temple are steps leading past lichen-covered statues and demons down to a square artificial pool with a tiny island in the middle, a symbolic microcosm of the Hindu Mount Meru.
     On the isle are two bale, one dedicated to Gunung Batukau and the other to the deity of the three lakes—Tamblingan, Buyan, and Bratan—which stand within its catchment area. Nearby is a small temple and sacred air panas bubbling up from a riverbank. Several paths lead off into the forest, the domain of cicadas and frogs.
     If you get to Pura Lunur in the late afternoon you'll probably have the place all to yourself. If there's a ceremony going on, spend the whole day. Thousands of pilgrims journey to this remote pura during Umanis Galungan, (the day after Galungan). Regional water-opening rites are also held here; subak heads, pemangku, and klian carry small containers of its holy water back to their subak to bless similar ceremonies.

Getting There and Away
Public bemo only go to Pura Luhur on festival days but you can reach Jatuluwih (via Penebel) by bemo from where you can bargain with the driver to take you up to the temple. Board Jatuluwih-bound bemo from Tabanan's Tawakilang bemo station, two km north of Tabanan's center, leaving about every hour until noon. If driving yourself, first turn right a bit west of Tabanan and travel north on a steep narrow road up the southern slopes through lovely rice terraces and untouristed villages. Three km before the mid-sized market town of Penebel a turnoff west takes you to the hot springs of Yeh Panas, then on to Wangaya Gede, a village just two km south of Pura Luhur, and finally to the desa of Batukaru where Pura Luhur Batukau is located. Pura Luhur can also be reached from the main Mengwi-Bedugul road by taking the road east to Marga. These cool, jungled uplands have sublime landscapes, with green moss everywhere.


A small, friendly lakeside resort in the middle of the central highlands southwest of Gunung Catur, an hour's drive (48 km) from Denpasar on the main road north (30 km) to Singaraja. Bedugul is the name given to a whole string of villages along the lake's western shore. With its comfortable accommodations, wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables, lakeside views, blankets of fog, beautiful mystical quality, and an average temperature of 18-24° Centigrade, Bedugul has been a popular weekend retreat since Dutch times. It's a welcome change from Bali's tropical humidity. Few tourists stop here. If you time your arrival for the late afternoon, you can practically have Ulun Danu Temple and the botanical gardens to yourself. Bedugul has a huge Muslim population; loudspeaker chanting starts blasting from the mosque at 0430.
     Serene Lake Bratan fills the ancient crater of long-inactive volcano Gunung Catur, which towers over the lake. Over 1,200 meters above sea level, Bedugul is nearly as cool as the Gunung Batur region only 20 impassable kilometers directly to the east. The cool ride up to this valley through terraced mountain vegetable gardens of cabbage, onion, and papaya is even more scenic than the ride to Penelokan.
     Bedugul is a bit more relaxing and quieter—especially in the hot season—than Penelokan where there are too many grabby sellers. Like Penelokan, however, the locals seem to be spoiled by the loads of package tourists (especially Japanese), and Bedugul is a strangely expensive place. It's cheaper to stay in Lovina and charter a car or rent a motorcycle for a day trip.
     The first entrance on the right as you near the top of the mountain is 100% commercial. In fact, there are so many domestic tourists swarming around touristy Hotel Bedugul that sitting quietly on the shore of the lake is impossible. Guides are available at the hotel, but their English needs a lot of work.
     Across the lake are three 25-meter-deep caves (Goa Jepang) dug out by Indonesian slave laborers for the Japanese during the war. It is said that after the caves were constructed the workers were all shot. The caves are accessible from the rim trail to Gunung Catur. You can walk there from Taman Rekreasi in about 45 minutes.
     Don't pass up the beautiful hikes along the exquisitely cultivated lakeshore and through the steep, jungle-covered rolling hills and pine forests surrounding the lake. Bedugul and the mountains around it start to cloud over in the afternoon. Overcast skies or rain cause the area to become severely cold (down to 11° C at night), so bring a sweater. A lovely desa called Kembangmerta, on the other side of the lake from Hotel Bedugul, is two km from the main road or just one km from Ulun Danu Temple. Dotting this whole hillside are holiday homes of rich Balinese.

Water Sports
It's really crowded here on holidays and weekends and during the vacation season, 20 December to 5 January. At other times, the lake is a quiet refuge nearly devoid of tourists both domestic and foreign. Along the pier in front of Hotel Bedugul are moored boats of every size and description. Powerboats stand ready to pull water-skiers and parasailors around the lake, or you may hire a small prahu (Rp5000 per hour) and paddle around the placid waters under shady trees, and glide through reflections of steep mountain slopes and fleecy clouds. Lake swimming is chilly, but early in the day when the sun's out the waterskiing on the lake's glassy surface is primo enough to attract international competitions.
     In front of Hotel Bedugul is the Taman Rekreasi complex, admission Rp500, plus parking fee. Here you can rent parasailing (Rp20,000 for 15 minutes) and waterskiing (Rp25,000 for training, tows and use of jumping ramp) equipment. Motorboats rent for Rp20,000 per person (30 minutes, capacity four people), covered boats Rp20,500 per person for a tour of the lake, capacity eight people, and jet skis (Rp20,000 for 15 minutes). Paddleboats (Rp12,000) and wooden prahu are also available from private operators for paddling across to the temple; bargain intensely. Join the children fishing for minnows from the shore; fishing poles and bait cost Rp500 per day.

Don't settle for the limited selection and high prices in just the market village of Bedugul. Check out accommodations in each of the different communities of the area—Pancasari, Candikuning, Bedugul, Pacung. It's a spread out area and it helps to know where you're going.
     Three km south of Candikuning in Bedugul village at the junction of the road to Taman Rekreasi is basic, 10-room Strawbali Hill, tel. (0362) 23467. Ten losmen-style rooms with private mandi and cold water for Rp15,000 single rooms, Rp20,000 twins (breakfast included) are packed into a small compound. Tasty Indonesian food served, as well as Western dishes like salads, chicken, omelettes, and pancakes. Good value, with prices geared to budget travelers.
     Hotel Bedugul (tel. 0362-226593), on the lake's southern shore, seems to have absorbed all the adjacent, less expensive hotels. This enables the place to get away with charging Rp80,000-104,000 for rather decrepit motel-style lakeside rooms. There are also 36 bungalows facing the lake (Rp70,000-115,000) with TV, private mandi, and hot water, breakfast included. All prices subject to 15.5% tax and service. Patronized by rich Chinese, Jakartans, and Japanese, who seem to be the only ones able to afford the waterside restaurant (lunch buffet Rp12,000). The quality of the expensive Chinese-Indonesian food is not that high. A wide range of water sports is offered. A scene for people who like people.
     Between Candikuning and Bedugul is the Mini-Bali, appropriately named for its six tiny Rp15,000 rooms, small beds, and the truly mini portions served in its restaurant. One Rp20,000 room has a private mandi. Spartan yet clean.

Owing to the temperate climate and heavy rainfall in these mountains, Bedugul offers a giddy selection of European and Asian produce grown on the area's fertile mountain slopes. Bedugul supplies the southern population centers and hotel resorts with most of its vegetables and succulent fruits. The warung near the trailhead up to Gunung Catur serve delicious gado-gado, fried vegetables, and nasi goreng. Bargain. Bedugul also features several grocery stores and lots of fruit vendors. The tourist restaurant, Bukit Permai, tel. (0362) 223662 and 223663, right off the main road, offers a stupendous view over the lake. Most restaurants cater to just the lunch crowds and close by 2000.

Getting There and Away
A good road runs from Singaraja's western bus station to Bedugul, Rp2000 by bemo or minibus. If heading north to Singaraja, take a bemo (Rp2500) from Denpasar's Ubung Station to Bedugul—a faster route to the north coast than via Kintamani. Bands of dark, heavy-coated monkeys are often seen along this road. If coming into Bedugul from the south, the first right turn is to Taman Rekreasi.
     If you go straight ahead the road passes through the villages of Candikuning and Pancasari on the west shore of Lake Bratan before climbing throught the pass of the water at Puncak to begin its steep winding drop to the northern plains.
     By bemo to Mengwi is Rp800; Singaraja, Rp2000; Denpasar, Rp2500. If you're heading back to Denpasar, start early in the afternoon because bemo tend to fill up fast above Bedugul; by the time they reach you there's no more seating room. At the Denpasar 40 km sign below Baturiti, a dirt road via Apuan and Jatiluwih emerges at Wangaya Gede, but it's so full of boulders it'll shake the guts out of anyone on a motorcycle. Stop in the Soka Sari Restaurant (serving European, Chinese and Indonesian food, reservations tel. 0361-235909) in Jatiluwih, for a sweeping 360-degree panorama over rice fields. At an altitude of 850 meters, the air is cool and fresh. A Rangda temple and parking lot are beside the viewpoint. A two km walk into the woods will bring you to unique Pura Petali, as old as the village of Jatiluwih itself. The houses in this traditional village are still built with thatched roofs, and the farmers still work padi bali, traditionally grown rice which reaches 120 cm in height. Three km beyond, in the southern end of the village, are more unobstructed rice fields and—if the sky is clear—a view of the curved southern tip of Bali. At Wangaya Gede, head north for Gunung Batukau. South takes you down to the cultivated plains.
     Another nice experience is to walk the 25-km-long track from Bedugul to Kintamani. You're also within striking distance of the mountain area or Munduk; just head north by road to Giggit, then turn east. Stop in at pristine Danau Tamblingan en route.

Pura Puncak Mangu
This remote temple is located on the rim of the caldera above Lake Bratan. What the temple on top of Gunung Abang is to the people of the Gunung Batur region, this temple is to the people of Bedugul. Though it's one of the sacred sad-kahyangan temples of Bali, it's difficult to access and little known. If you're in reasonably good shape, the six-km hike along the northeastern edge of Lake Bratan requires about 2.25 hours of hard climbing through a canopied rainforest. Bring water. Ask at the ranger station about a guide (Rp10,000-15,000)—you'll need one, especially if you intend to take the steep and arduous path down to the lakeshore.
     Reach the trailhead by turning right off the main road at the Y before Bedugul; the well-marked path starts by the ranger guardpost just as the small road turns left 180 degrees to Bedugul's lakeshore recreation complex. Register at the guardpost, then walk past the trash pile. Get used to the trash. Left by Indonesian tour groups and schoolchildren, plastic bottles and discarded wrappers litter the trail all the way to the summit.
     The first segment of the trail is gradual, winding through bean and cabbage patches, then it climbs through a dank lantana and pandanus forest with glimpses of the lake down below. You really start to climb as the mist sets in—up one steep hill, then a saddle before an even steeper section where you must pull yourself up by the roots of trees up through a slippery, muddy slope. The last 500 meters is pure torture.
     At the top is a flat shady area, inhabited by gray monkeys; gaps in the dense forest provide stupendous views of Gunung Batur and Gunung Abang to the east and the mountains of west Bali to the west. Ancient Pura Puncak Mangu, built by Mengwi's first raja, is a simple, peaceful temple with a padmasana, shrine, a linga, some nice reliefs, and two meru. Camping is allowed under the temple's several bale. Unless a festival is going on, it's unlikely that anyone will be there.
     On your return, after about one and a half km (45 minutes) there's a path to the right—marked by plastic bottles—that is very steep, slippery, and scrabbly, with loose dirt jungle weeds, scratchy vines, leading straight down for 700 meters to the lakeshore. This trek is impossible in the rainy season. There's also a path from the back of the temple that leads down the other side of the mountain and emerges on the main road above Pancasari, but you'll definitely need a guide for this.
     From the bottom, walk three km past grazing cows and thriving market gardens of cabbages, carrots, parsley, scallions, and potatoes. See Goa Jepang on the way. The path soon turns into a small road which leads to a village on the north shore, your vehicle can meet you here or you can flag down transport on the highway one kilometer farther north.

A village five km south of Bedugul, with breathtaking views and wonderful fresh air. Market every three days. Both accommodations and food are less expensive here than in Bedugul. The lookout restaurants of Baturiti are the only places to stop on the twisting mountain road between Bedugul and Mengwi.
     The Pacung Hotel & Restaurant, tel. (0361) 262460 or (0368) 21043, overlooks the valley four km south of Baturiti just before Pacung. With a lovely setting, good service, and small pool, it's expensive at Rp138,000 per bungalow with private baths, hot water, fridge, TV, and in-house video. Suite bungalows cost Rp160,000. The best of the best in the area. The restaurant offers well-prepared Indonesian and Chinese dishes (Rp4000-5000), freshwater fish, and a Westernized buffet (Rp12,000) from 1200 to 1500. Add 15.5% to all prices. About one km south of Candikuning market in Baturiti is the Bukit Mungsu Indah Hotel, (tel. 0361-23662 or 23663) with 13 cottages on a hill looking south toward the lowlands. Standard rooms are Rp40,000-55,000, superior Rp55,000-60,000 with TV, fireplace; basic breakfast included. The best rooms face the Kebun Raya botanical gardens. Cheaper rooms are smaller and have no TV. In the mornings you can see the surrounding mountains.
     The Green Valley Homestay & Restaurant, about two km south of Candikuning market, has fantastic views, taking in Gunung Agung and rice fields to the sea. In addition to the lunchtime buffet for Rp11,000 food is available a la carte (drivers eat free). More of a small hotel than a homestay, Green Valley has rooms for Rp20,000-40,000 with TV and hot showers. The owner, Ida Bagus Wiryana, also owns restaurants in Lovina and Candidasa. Mr. Wiryana is studying for the priesthood and he is definitely a good Samaritan.
     Pacung Cottages & Restaurant, tel. (0361) 25824, fax 37638, just south of Baturiti in Pacung village, is a pleasant rest stop. Rates are Rp127,000-150,000 s, Rp138,00-160,000 d, suites are Rp138,000-160,000 (subject to 15.5% tax and service). Rooms are carpeted, with private baths, hot water, and balconies. The bar and restaurant serves international cuisine (too Westernized). Amenities include 24-hour room service, heated pool, conference room, gift shop, dry cleaning, and ample parking.

Two km north of Bedugul, extending along the road on the west side of Lake Bratan, are the Muslim lakeside villages of Candikuning I and Candikuning II, settled by Javanese, Madurese, and Islamic Sasaks from Lombok. A Wartel is opposite the market. This is a popular fishing spot.
     Be sure to visit the colorful fruit/vegetable/spice/flower market, Pasar Candikuning, north of the turn to Hotel Bedugul; in front is a statue of an ear of corn standing on a fat cabbage. Buy luscious passion fruit, jackfruit, wild strawberries, mangoes, pomegranates, and such temperate and tropical vegetables as carrots, potatoes, corn, and year-round asparagus. Try to visit during the strawberry season. This area supplies vegetables to not only the Denpasar area but also exports to other islands like Java.
     Starting prices are high: Rp3000 for a kilo of apples, Rp5000 for a bunch of vanilla pods. Don't believe them when they say they're selling saffron—this is the name for nasi kuning coloring and flavoring, for which they want Rp1000. Be prepared to bargain vigorously. In the back is the fresh flower market, with tier upon tier of potted ferns, hydrangeas, begonias, cempaka, canna lilies, and beautiful wild mountain orchids. You'll find the widest variety of ornamental plants August to September.

The Ulun Danu Temple Complex
On a small promontory jutting out from the western shore of the lake is this peaceful half-Hindu, half-Buddhist temple complex built by the raja of Mengwi in 1633. Lake Bratan is looked upon as the source of irrigation water for the southern districts, and the subuk shrine here is the focus of island-wide ceremonies meant to ensure a steady and continued supply of water. Periodically the temple is flooded by the rising lake, reclaimed again and again.
     Turn in from the main north-south highway and into the parking lot, which faces the usual row of gaudy souvenir shops. Admission Rp500, open 0700-1800 daily. The Ulun Danu Restaurant, inside the well-kept temple grounds overlooking the lake, sells a big, delicious buffet Indo-Chinese-Balinese lunch for Rp12,500. From the restaurant, walk under the canopy of a huge banyan tree past a satiny lawn and gorgeous gardens with trumpet-flower trees and gladiolas—a scene of placid beauty. Observe the Buddhist stupa with intricate carvings on the left, then enter the main temple Pura Teratai Bang dominated by a seven-tiered meru tower. The goddess of food and drink is revered at the smaller Pura Dalem Purwa. Farther on is Pura Ulun Danu Bratan floating out on the lake with its elegant 11-roofed meru dedicated to Vishnu, it's seven-roofed meru dedicated to Brahma, and its three-roofed meru housing a linga to Shiva. There are also two smaller shrines. This is Bali's most important irrigation temple, the destination of pilgrims from all over the island who come to worship Dewi Danu, the water goddess.
     During the first half of the '90s, Ulu Danu had few pushy sellers, lots of native Balinese, and occasional busloads of tourists. It still gets lots of Balinese, but starting in 1996 the tour companies started to include the temple in their itineraries. The site is no longer as peaceful as it was: many vendors, lots of buses, speedboats, and so on. Better to go in the late afternoon.
     You can also approach Pura Ulun Danu from the lake. Any number of boatmen around Hotel Bedugul will take you there for Rp20,000 or so. From the temple, walk around the shore of the lake. If you lose interest halfway, you can always hire a canoe to take you across to Pura Ulun Danu or Bedugul.

Kebun Raya Eka Karya
The start of the 2.5-km-long road up to Bali's sprawling botanical gardens, arboretum, and mountain orchid collection lies just 200 meters south of the Candikuning market. Founded in 1959, the park is dedicated to the study of the mountain flora of eastern Indonesia. Open Mon.-Fri. 0700-1630, Sat.-Sun. 0800-1630. Entrance Rp1100 (free for Balinese), auto parking Rp500, motorcycles Rp150. Study the map at the entrance. Benches, sitting pavilions, three temples, herbarium, cafeterias, and clean restrooms all provided inside the park. It's a one-km walk from the parking lot up to the study office at the top (north) of the gardens; the office library is open Mon.-Thurs. 0700-1400, Friday 0700-1100, Saturday 0700-1230. Interested botanists should contact the office beforehand by writing Cabang Belai Kebun Raya, Eka Karya Bali, Candikuning, Baturiti, Tabanan 82191, Bali.
     A branch of the Bogor Botanical Gardens in West Java, this extensive 130-hectare park is situated on the hilly lower slopes of 2,065-meter-high Gunung Pohen ("tree mountain") to the west at 1,200-1,450 meters elevation. The tallest tree in the garden's collection is the Geseng pine tree (Casuarina junghuniana Miq). Featured are a collection of 500 varieties of orchids and 668 species of local and imported trees.
     Also expect to see lilies, poinsettas, bougainvillea, bamboo, palms, and such rare species as Podocarpus imbricatus and Pinanga Javana. The plants are meticulously arranged in family and species order, specimens are labeled in Latin while park signs are in Indonesian.
     Like a huge, beautifully landscaped, cool, green, inviting country estate, this is a superb place for a picnic or shady stroll. If you're looking for peace and solitude, avoid the weekends. An excellent eight-km undulating footpath at the garden's north side leads through the foothills of Gunung Tapak at the north end of the valley. The path comes out on the main road in Pancasari.
     Accommodations and Food: On the road to the botanical gardens, at Rp15,000, the very basic Mawar Indah is highway robbery. The best food around is at the Bogi Sari on the main road; cheap, basic, good.
     Ananda, a small clean losmen just across from the Candikuning market on the main road. At Rp20,000 with breakfast, this is a "Best Buy."
     Also not a bad deal is Lila Graha, tel. (0362) 23848, high on a hill looking out over Ulun Datu Temple and the lake, though the barbed wire installed for security reasons makes the backyard look like a concentration camp. An old Dutch wooden villa built in 1935, bungalows were added in 1970. The 15 rooms cost Rp25,000-35,000 with suites running Rp65,000. Same price during busy season; rates include breakfast. The bungalows on the side of the hill are more private and nicer but noisier. Restaurant. Around the lakeside north of Bedugul, almost opposite the road up to the Lila Graha, is Ashram Guesthouse (tel. 0362-22439) which caters primarily to groups. Bungalows spread out over a whole hillside next to the lake with gardens, stepping-stone paths, tennis court. The tariff is Rp30,000-70,000 for rooms with hot water, bathtub, spring beds, and terrace. The smaller Rp30,000 rooms come with cold water, no shower, no bathtub. The Ashram has two restaurants, one a delightful open-air pavilion looking out over the lake, the other in the middle of the attractive hillside garden.
     In Candikuning Market, eat cheaply at Warung Nasi Era and Warung Nasi Sari Sedana, which sell inexpensive nasi campur for Rp2000. Or in the market buy the steamed corn on the cob, and sweet rice wrapped in coconut leaves. Try fresh lake fish and Indonesian food across the road at Ananda. Next door is Ayam Goreng Jogya, specializing in ayam goreng. Several doors away is Ananda II for Chinese food. Don't forget marvelous Warung Ibu Hadi on the road to the botanical gardens. One of the nicest venues for tea and dessert is the open-air patio of the Ulum Danu Restaurant on the lake on the south side of the Ulun Danu temple complex; good and cheap warung are also found in the temple parking lot.

A vegetable-growing and service community of Pancasari, north of Bedugul, is actually located in Buleleng Regency just over the border separating it from Bangli Regency. The Lake Buyan Recreation Area is on the left as you enter Pancasari from the south. There's a very scenic walk around the south side of the lake, up over the saddle, then on to Lake Tamblingan to the road around the northern side of the lakes back to Pancasari.
     The family-oriented Pancasari Inn & Restaurant, tel. (0362) 21148, is north of Bedugul just before the Bali Handara Country Club turnoff. Though better value than the Hotel Bedugul, their high-season starting price is Rp115,000 for rooms (two per bungalow) with private bath and hot water. Furnished suites with kitchens and fireplaces at Rp160,000 are ideal for families. Extra bed Rp27,000. All rates subject to 15.5% tax and service; continental breakfast included. In the low season, the tariff could drop as low as Rp50,000 s. Room and laundry service, tennis court, children's playground, kiosk. Located in the heart of town, just five minutes from the market. The restaurant is pricey—not good value. Good views when it's not foggy. Overlooking Lake Buyan is Bali Lake Buyan Cottages, Desa Pancasari, Sukasada, Buleleng, tel. (0362) 21351 or 23739, fax 21388. Close to the post office, just down from the market, and 200 meters up from the main road. Consisting of just nine elegant cottages, each with two twin bedrooms, private bathrooms with hot water, spacious living room with fireplace, and dining room complete with kitchenette. Tennis court and putting green; five-minute drive from the Kosaido Country Club.
     The Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club is just north of the lake, six km from Bedugul. Enter this internationally known hotel through Bali's largest split gate. Built in the early 1970s by the state-run Pertamina oil company, the Bali Handara is sterile and lacking charm, frequented most by golfers, particularly the Japanese. The buildings and grounds themselves remind one of an institution, and the cottages look like something from a California Highway rest stop. The clubhouse has become worn around the edges, but the club's cool, 1,142-meter-high, 6,400-meter-long, year-round 18-hole championship golf course is world-class. Masterfully designed by Peter Thomson & Associates of Australia, it's a worthy enough venue to host international golf tournaments. With tall trees and beds of flowers in riotous colors separating the fairways, the lawn virtually flown in from California, the Bali Handara is considered one of the most beautiful golf courses in Asia. It's also the only course in the world sited inside a volcanic crater. Greens fees are Rp196,000 per 18 holes or Rp108,000 for nine holes, 25% less if you stay in the hotel. The caddy fee for 18 holes is Rp14,000, and a half set of clubs rents for Rp57,000, shoe rental Rp16,000, driving range Rp10,000, a one-hour video analysis Rp230,000. There are also tennis courts (Rp14,000 per hour), a pro shop, health club, massage parlor (Rp28,000, 45 minutes), sauna and fitness center (Rp12,000), and Japanese traditional bath.
     Rooms and suites with baths, adjustable heaters, and satellite TV rent from Rp196,000 to Rp800,000; Bali-style luxury bungalows with fireplaces from Rp147,000 to Rp425,000. All rates subject to 15.5% service and tax. Upscale Kamandalu Restaurant offers international cuisine with a novel touch. There's also a snack bar, karaoke bar, and a full bar in the lobby, visit to take in the magnificent view over the golf course, Lake Buyan, and lush mountains beyond—definitely worth the high priced coffee or beer. Reservations: Box 324, Denpasar, tel. (0362) 22646, fax 23048. All major cards accepted. Hope that the place isn't booked up by some big international petroleum company from Jakarta.